Is Name Woman

That's what I got when I tried to Google translate the Wikipedia page for "Valpuri."
From what I can figure, she's some kind of saint. Saint of Fabulous Sweater Patterns maybe?
Well, maybe not.
Whoever at Berroco designed Valpuri, should be sainted because it isn't easy to envision one of those rare knits that seem to divinely work with many shapes and sizes to come up with something flattering, and more importantly, sexy, because (sorry Hokey Pokey) SEXY is really what it's all about. And the winner for Best Run-On Sentence goes to...

Ah, where was I? Oh yes, flattering and sexxxyyy...
Meet Jacqui, or JackieChris to you Ravellers.

Jacqui used Stylecraft Heath DK and size US 6 and 8 needles. I think this color looks great on her and she sure seems to be having fun in that sweater. She knit up the Medium size, but the cables make it fit close to her body. She could have probably knit a small, but I wouldn't want this project to be too tight because the fabric will be thicker than a sweater with no cables.
You can see from this photo there are a lot of cables involved, but most Ravellers who completed this project found it easy. This would probably be a good first or second cable project for you new knitters. Jackie added about 3 inches to the length to compensate for a longer torso. This is also a good idea for you gals with "muffin tops." You don't want your shirts hitting at the area between the waist and hip if, like me, there is something hanging over your pants in that same area.


Kathy, or katschem on Rav, knit a large out of Plymouth Jeannee Aran on US 7 needles. She said she used the 7s to compensate for a tight gauge. You'll notice in this photo how the v-neck is shallow enough to keep the girls under control. It can be difficult to find v's that are not so deep that you have to worry about the girls escaping. Kathy said the neck was a little fiddly, you might want to try other options if you decide to try this. Kathy also seems to be enjoying this sweater immensely. Do you think we've found the wool equivalent of Xanax? Might be worth knitting just to find out...


Wanabelle100 didn't show us her face, so I can't tell if she's smiling. I'd like to think with that sassy hand on her hip, she's making her best "come hither" eyes in the mirror. This aquamarine is so gorgeous. If I decide to try this pattern, I think this is the color I'd go with. Jean (IRL) knit an extra small on US 6 and 8s. She used Red Heart Super Saver (Acrylic lovers- REPRESENT!) and it only took two skeins. Jean thinks the RHSS is a little too heavy for this project because of the cables. You might consider a lighter yarn and a bigger needle if you are concerned about the sweater being too bulky. Jean couldn't exactly go down a size, but another option is following the directions for a smaller size, but using larger needles to get a looser gauge.


Ericka (Sereknity) illustrates why knitting up a heavier sweater might be desirable, other than for warmth, of course. Notice how her sweater is tighter on her body, but it doesn't show any bumps or imperfections. Also notice how her girls are walking the line- totally under control. A heavier fabric, like cables or double knits, will hold its own shape and not cling to the body so much. (Think about those sweaters or hats you knit in a bulky yarn on size 3 needles when you didn't know better, they seem to be able to stand up on their own.) This might not be so important to smaller women, but for anyone over a small, I'd err on the side of too bulky. Ericka's Valpuri is a size M, knit up on US 5 and 7s. The yarn is Lion Brand Cotton-Ease. She says the Cotton Ease shows up the cable pattern very well. She used a few mods, like cabling without a cable needle (you really need to try this if you haven't) and she used a single-crochet border around the neck instead of ribbing.

Conclusions:
Valpuri is a winner all around. The v-neck accentuates the face, as usual, but is not so deep as to be revealing. A heavier cabled fabric holds its shape and either sucks in some lumpiness or fails to cling to every bump. You smaller gals might want to try a looser gauge if you don't want to feel constricted.

Speak Up:
Have you knit Valpuri? Did you go for a tighter or looser gauge? Is there another pattern you knit up that has a thicker fabric and hides imperfections? Do you ever change the length of your tops to mask the wierd things that happen in the no-man's land between our waistlines and hips?

Not a V-Neck!

(Warning- I'm feeling a little fond of the asides today. This post is heavy on the parentheses)
At the time of this post, this jacket has 1079 Ravelry Project pages and is in 4515 queues, including my own. Chances are, if you're reading this, you've at least considered knitting up Drops 103-1 (I wish they'd give their projects better names.) It's a free pattern and it looks great on just about anyone. You should think about it if you haven't.

The first project up is one I'm sure you've seen. It has over 300 faves on Ravelry and is in the top 6 for number of faves for this project. Nina, aka LaNina used US 10 needles and Kraemer Yarns Maunch Chunky in Licorice Snaps. I'm not sure what size she knit up, but this looks like a small to me. Nina shows us here one way to have fun with this pattern that enhances its versatility- funky fasteners! If you look at the Rav page for this project, you'll notice most of the best jackets have huge, in-your-face buttons, toggles, or fasteners. Nina has also turned her collar down, reminiscent of CanarySanctuary's modded version (I know you've seen this version, and Canary knows I love her, so I won't go into detail on her mods here.)

Another thing the best-of-the-best have in common is great color choice. This pattern has lots of detail, but it's not too overwhelming in a bright color. Taija (or Tui to Ravellers) used Garnstudio Eskimo in a bright yellow when she knit up her size xl on US 11s. This version shows how the front detail reigns in what could be problematic bustiness in another jacket. It also illustrates a drawback, however. This is not a jacket that you can leave open.

Although the asymmetric lines and high neck highlight the face, those same lines make for a strange bulge of fabric when left unfastened.


While Taija minimized the bulkiness around her neck, that same bulkiness adds a high-fashion quality to Fragilistica's (or Magda to non Ravelers) (really, are there any non-Ravellers left?) version below. Magda is also showing us a shorter sleeve and more ease than the previous projects. Adding ease (aka knitting up a bigger size) is a good way to make the bulk look like it's coming from the jacket instead of the body. It also doesn't hurt that Magda looks like a supermodel in this photo anyway (really! Why can't I take artsy photos like this?) She used Rowan Chunky Print in Natural and US 11 needles. Magda also happens to be in the top 4 for favorites with this jacket.

And how beautiful is this next photo? Elin is freaking cute as a button (she really is, check out her blog). This photo makes me feel all back-to-schooley excited for fall. I love the boyfriend jeans and slightly baggy look of this jacket (note to self- look into boyfriend jeans). Elin used a little more ease and shorter sleeves, making her 103-1 look like something you'd curl up in after a warm bath on a cool night. Elin, is this thing really as comfy as it looks?

You can use Rowan Yorkshire Tweed Aran in Muffin and US 6 needles to try and copy Elin's jacket. She knitted a Medium with smaller needles and yarn than called for and ended up with a 38" bust. She doesn't mention if she was able to match her gauge to the pattern.


Lastly, another beautiful color to ease us into Autumn. (I just realized today is the first day of Autumn. I love Autumn.) This is Amy; she also calls herself Amelie on a certain website. Amy went for longer sleeves and a double-breasted look with six buttons. She went for the 37" size, which I'm going to assume is a Medium-ish? The neck on this jacket is not overwhelming and doesn't compete with her Bettie Page hair and funky glasses. You really have to know when to let your personality speak louder than your clothes. This is Garnstudio Eskimo in purple and she used US 11 needles.

In Conclusion:
You can play around with sleeve length, ease, and how much of a collar you want to make this jacket look sleek, casual, or down-right comfortable. (I do not use casual as a synonym for comfortable.) The detail down the front and buttons near the face draw attention away from any width you may be trying to camouflage. This jacket is also A-lined, which means it will skim the body instead of hugging curves. The simple lines of this jacket give a great opportunity to play around with color and try out the biggest, funkiest, buttons you can find. It will only enhance your face and excuses for funkiness are few and far between.

Speak Up:
Is this jacket in your queue? Have you tried to knit it up? How has ease affected your opinion of your jacket? Show us your buttons!!! Have you played around with gauge or other modifications? What colors would you choose for this jacket and why?

For the Adventurous

I absolutely can't wait to start on this sweater myself. The adventure comes from three characteristics: a very loose gauge: you'll definitely need a cami under this one, a seriously deep v-neck; see #1, and the fact that this isn't a pattern as much as a set of guidelines.
However, just like mapping the ocean floor, this is one adventure worth taking. And don't be frightened by the lack of stitch counts and that other Hoo-Ha. Knitters with some knowledge of sweater construction will have no problem with this project.
The Cabled Sweater is a gift to us from Ravelry user, Hinke. Click on her name for her Ravelry project page, it's worth it!Readers of this blog will be able to tell in a second why this sweater attracts me. There's a sweeping v-neck and detail right under the bust that draws the eye inward and makes you focus on the slimmest part of the torso. The loose sleeve construction hides any under-arm rolls or tricep flab. Not that Hinke (above) has to worry about any of that. How hot is that picture above?!?!?! Very Abercrombie. Hinke used Phildar Kid Mohair and US 11s for this knit.

Vampiroknit, also know as Weronica, illustrates another plus for this pattern. It's knit up in a thinner yarn with a bigger guage. Here, she uses Anilux Moherek in brown on size US 15 needles! It makes me giddy thinking about how fast this knit can go. The best thing about the loose gauge is the fabric it makes is very flowy and doesn't cling to every hill and valley along the mid-section. The sheerness also adds another bit of sexy that's always a plus in hand-knits. Weronika calls this size 48. I think that's bust measurement, but I'm sure she'll correct me if it's otherwise.

Our last model, Chibitora (blog is in Japanese), AKA Yuko, used two yarns: Jaeger Mohair Art and Bouton d'Or Ondine. I'm assuming she held them together, but I'm not 100%. Yuko? Would you like to let us know in the comments? Yuko also used size US 11 needles and knit up a small. This photo illustrates the best feature of this sweater. Even in a bathroom-mirror-self-portrait, this sweater looks straight from the runway. Seriously, I haven't seen a bad one yet. While you're admiring Yuko's mad photo skills, run over to her Rav Projects Page and be prepared to turn green with envy. Yuko, you are a knitting goddess!


Here's another Red-Hot number by Frauchaotis (Blog is in German.) What is it about this sweater that all the photos look like they belong in Vogue? I'm not sure what kind of yarn she used here, but she knit it up one US 10s. I have to say, after knitting socks for a while the idea of a fast knit on big needles is making me antsy to no end. This version was knit up a little tighter than the others and it looks like a thicker yarn. I'd stick with the looser version if you're a large or bigger, but this tighter gauge is smokin' on the slimmer ladies. It just goes to show how yarn selection, gauge, and fit can work for or against a pattern. Knowing your body and what looks good on it will go miles to insure all your knits work for your shape.


Conclusions:
The deep-v and bust detail visually squeeze in your waist and make it look as small as the area right under the bust (which is usually the smallest area on the torso, unless you are a small or extra small, but then, if you are that small, why do you care?) Loose gauge helps the fabric flow away from the body and skim over any lumps or bumps. This is a gorgeous sweater that doesn't seem to allow itself to look homemade. Smaller people can get away with doubling up yarn or using a thicker weight, but it's best to stay on the thinner side in terms of yarn. Kimono-style arms hide under-arm cleavage and flabby triceps. Go on and knit this! Right now!

Speak up:
What do you think of this sweater? How do you think color choice would affect the look of Cabled? Any yarns you're dying to try this in? How tired are you of me going on about the virtues of v-necks?

Site News

My real life has been sort of hectic lately, but I haven't forgotten about this blog. I've heard many good things from people and I have several posts in the works. People have been great about letting me feature their projects and photos. If there's a project you would like featured, let me know. If I can find more like it and it looks flattering on most, I'll be happy to give you credit for the find. Thanks again for reading. See you soon!

Much Better Use of French

Than Clapotis. I think we can all agree on that.
I remember when Cherie Amour first came out on Knitty. I knew hundreds of knitters wouldn't be able to resist. I mean, this was obviously good stuff. Deep V-neck? Check. Waist Cinching? Check? That certain Je ne sais quoi? Oiu Oiu!!!
I almost feel like I'm cheating because this pattern is so obviously flattering. Let's just get to the projects, shall we?
This version was knit by Joanna in Manos Wool Clasica on US 9s and 13s. The only mod she has listed was sewing up the front opening about 3 inches. I think that was a great move on her part because, although the waist is already cinched by the ribbed section in the middle, the shorter neckline moves the focal point up to her face. Beyond the ribbing, the top floats away from the mid section, giving proper attention to the smaller waist area.

Kim stated in her comments section on her Rav Project page that she should have knit a small instead of xs. I think this looks great on her. This version is knit in Woole Siena Big on US 9s and 13s. I don't think she made any mods. That's what's great about this top: very few mods required for it to look good. As an aside, if you are on Rav you really need to check out this woman's projects. Beautifully knit and artfully photographed. I think Kim is one of my newest knitting heroes.

And lastly, but certainly not leastly: Julia from Germany. The blog is in German, but it's worth a visit just to look at the great photos. Julia knit her Cherie in Lana Grossa Cento on US 10s and 13s. This particular top is a medium. She had to fiddle with the arms a bit, but we've all been there, right? This one looks a lot like the Knitty version. Were you a test knitter, Julia?

Conclusions:
It's hard to go wrong with Cherie. The ribbing in the middle creates a slim waist even if you don't have one, and the v-neck (as usual) does great things for the bust while giving your face the attention it deserves. I'd like to see this in a lighter yarn and larger guage. I think that might decrease the bulk this sweater tends to have, but I'm not sure if the lighter yarn would still work the waist-illusion-action that the unmodified version has. You want to use a yarn with some body to hold the shape. I imagine cotton or silk would stretch out, again wasting the waist detail.

Speak Up:
Have any of you tried this in a lighter yarn? Why does this seem to look best in dark red? What mods might others be interested in? I'd like to see a collar variation. Anybody know of one?

There Was a House in New Orleans...
Called the "Rising Sun."
This pattern is a little controversial. It's for sale now, but a few lucky people were lucky enough to print or save it when it was free a while back. The controversy is that people who bought the particular issue of Interweave Knits, in which this jacket was pictured, feel like they should still have access to the pattern since they paid for the magazine- even though the pattern itself was not in the magazine.
Followed all that?
No?
Whatever. Let's get to the goodies. This is the Sunrise Circle Jacket by Kate Gilbert. You can purchase it for $6 on her website if you don't already have it. This design is a hit or miss. I've seen a lot of photos of these jackets that look absolutely horrible. Lumpy, thick, and misshapen, they can make the wearer add 20 visual pounds. There are a few shining examples, though, that prove this pattern is really a goldmine in disguise, if only you know the secrets.


Secret #1: Yarn Selection. Jench1n, above, Chose Noro Silk Garden in colourway #208 and US 9s. The long color repeats of the yarn create slimming circles at the natural waist, visually cinching the jacket in at the slimmest point of the body. Please note the muted colors and softer, drapier yarn also add to the slimming effect. Bold, contrasting colors, like primary colors, and yarns with more "body" might not give you the visual effect you're looking for here. This particular version is a size 35", which, I think, works out to about a medium. The shawl collar construction (I believe she just used one fastener instead of 3 or 4) creates my favorite neckline- the V! Forcing your eye up from the cinched waist to the face. (For another beautiful collar variation see hanao on Ravelry)


Secret #2: Be wary of variegations. Mimi here was able to get a little brave with the variagated yarn due, in part, to the fact that she was knitting a size 33 1/2" (Manos Del Uruguay, Clasica in Bing Cherry; US 7s). A larger woman would not be able to carry off this much visual action. Mimi also switched up her skeins every few rows to avoid pooling. Now, I know people have different ideas about whether pooling is good or bad. If you see a pooled top that has a slimming effect on the wearer, please let me know. I have a feeling that any attractively slimming pooled sweater might be knit by the Loch Ness Monster.

Rule #3: Toggle placement. This is the most important rule to follow if you want your jacket to NOT look like a tent. There are a lot of jackets out there where the toggles are placed to high up on the front, left section. When the gathering happens at the top of this jacket, it causes the bottom to flare out in an A-line shape. Anyone who watches Clinton and Stacey knows that A-lines are great for skirts and dresses, but the inverse of that rule is that A-lines are HORRIBLE for tops. Unless you're about to pop a baby out, then you can wear whatever the hell you want (We'll call this Shannon's Corrolary to the A-line Rule.) Jenny, pictured above, used Cascade 220 in Charcoal Gray with US 8s for her jacket. She says this is the "largest size" but I'm not so sure. Unless the largest size is a medium in the real world as sometimes happens with these things. Notice how she, and the other women in this post, placed the toggles as far DOWN the front of the jacket as possible. The result is slimming and elongating, rather than the bulky teepee appearance of Sunrise Circles gone wrong.


Rule #4: Have fun with color! This rule has two prerequisites: 4a.) This does NOT apply to stripes- see rule #1. and 4b.) All other rules must be upheld. Christy used Debbie Bliss Aran Tweed in a beautiful orange color. This is the 37" version knit on US 7s. As I was researching this pattern for this review, the bold colors grabbed my eye right away. The jacket has a funky construction, so you may as well run with it, right?

Conclusions:
This jacket is dangerous in the wrong hands. It has the ability to make you look like a large, hairy, ape if you do not follow these rules: 1. Select your yarn carefully. Don't go too bulky or stiff and 2. Be careful with stripes and variegations. 3. Location, location, location! Of the toggles, of course. Set them low on the jacket so the sides are straight. Aviod the A-line at all costs! and 4. Have fun with it! Try some funky color or embellishments. Just keep the crazy stuff away from your boobs or hips, and you should be fine.

Speak Up:
Is this in your queue? If you've knit it, how did it work out? Do you need some remedial button placement? Show us your embellishments! And, as always, let me know what you think!!!

Darn You, Economy!

I tried so hard to focus this blog on free patterns. Patterns that are accessible to anyone with the desire and yarn to take them up. Then I met Topstykke.
Not only is this pattern not free, it's only sold in a kit, and the website isn't even in English. (I know that's not a requirement for a large portion of the globe, but I'm limited to English and some French so if the pattern isn't accessible to me, I'm going to call it unaccessible.) I really tried to figure out how to order it online, with no success. Maybe some of the featured knitters will be able to give us some ideas in the comments???
"What's the big deal?" you may be asking.
Bam!:



















Yep, that's right. Not only is this tunic adorable in all adult sizes (we'll get to those in a bit), it also looks puppiesandkittenssnugglingtogetherinateacup cute on kids. (The kids version is called "Lille Topstykke" I believe.) If you want a less-blurry view of Lille Stykke, click on the image. I tried to edit out the cute baby face for privacy's sake and it blurred the image a bit. Dorthe knit this Lille Stikke with Geilsk 100% Uld on US 6s and I think we can agree that we all want one for our daughters!
Moving up a little on the size scale...
Laila's version in the purple is knit in a size L with a loose guage, so she claims it's actually an XL. Now, unless this is one of those patterns that is so completely missized so that the Olsen twins would fit a large, that XL totally looks like a M at most on Laila. The yarn is Noda Junik in Thistledown and she used US 2.5 needles. The scoop neck draws the eye down and frames her face beautifully. The a-line shape skims her body so there are no lumps or bumps showing through. (I'm sure there are no Lumps or Bumps to show, right Laila?)

Lisbeth, here in the grey, also used Geilsk 100% Uld, which I assume is the wool that comes in the kit? Am I right, Lisbeth?
She used US 4 needles and knit a size S. Her collar isn't as deep as Laila's, but I'm not sure if that's a result of the pattern size or a modification. In any case, the shorter neckline works here with the smaller bust. More fabric gives the illusion of more girth around the girls.


Our last featured project was knit by Tineke in a size M. Check out her Ravelry project page for another adorable Lille Topstykke. Tineke used US 4 needles with the 100% Uld kit yarn for the adult-sized Topstykke pictured here. Her neckline looks a bit square compared to the others and I'm not sure if it was a mod or just a fluke of the pattern. Some of the pattern reviews mentioned some difficulty in getting the pleats started, so that might be the difference. If anyone knows, leave a comment!
ETA: Tineke wrote me to say the neckline on her version is, in fact, the "correct" version. While I don't think I gave the impression that her's was wrong, I'd like to emphasize the pattern does have a square neck. She also pointed out the correct name for the child's version and the correct spelling of her name. I've corrected the errors above.

Conclusions:
This tunic has the magic ability to look like the same size whether you knit a small, medium, or extra large (I still don't believe that's an XL, Laila. Small needle size maybe?) And that's sooo not a bad thing!
The scoop (or square) neck and cap sleeves add interesting details around the collarbone and present the face beautifully. The A-line shaping and slanting pleat pattern camouflage the tummy and hip area, slimming the trouble spots and giving the illusion of a long, lean trunk. I wish the pattern was more accessible because I have no idea how to reverse-engineer that pleating. (Not that I encourage that sort of thing.)

Speak Up:
Have you knit a similar pleat detail? How does one order this kit? Will it break the bank? Are there other A-line tunics that slim and elongate the way Topstykke does? Does Topstykke mean anything, or is it just a name?